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Thread: Satan's Hollow - White Screen

  1. #1
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    Default Satan's Hollow - White Screen

    Well, my recently acquired Satan's Hollow upright has some problems. It will power up - the marquee lights, you can hear a slight hum, and the screen comes up to WHITE (occasionally there are a handful of random color squares too), but no sounds, no coin up, no game.

    The capped fuses on the top of the power brick at the bottom of the cab are good, and there is 120v present on that board. I have not removed that brick to see if there is anything going on underneath.

    The other power board mounted on the side of the cabinet has one fuse (which is good), but some pretty bad corrosion on some of the components. It doesn't look like anything is visibly burned out, but looking at the underside of the board, even the traces look pretty bad.

    From some Googling, it seems that these power boards are frequently the culprit with issues like I'm seeing (with Bally Midway MCR II/III stuff), but I personally don't have much experience with these boards. Still, with the corrosion I see on this board, I think my problem lies in this area. I pulled the board today, and here's an image of it.

    You can see some of the corrosion better here.

    Any thoughts? Is it better to just put in a newer switching power supply? If so, what all do I need to do that?

    Thanks!
    Last edited by Nurmix; 10-09-12 at 01:22.

  2. #2
    focusrs Guest

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    try doing continuity checks across the traces to see if any are severed. then try to see if you can repair them http://www.instructables.com/id/Solder-on-PCB-traces/

    I have done this many times in repairing old electronics.

  3. #3
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    I am guessing thats a board fault. You should check the common voltages. I am not familiar with MCR stuff so they maye have weird voltages but in general its + and - 5 and 12. Check these at the PSU and at the board (across a chip - google for how to check that if you dont know but IIRC its 2 diagonally opposite pins). There can be a lot of voltage drop from PSU to board. If all voltages look good, I guess find someone who can test and repair the board as a first action.

  4. #4
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    Switchers will be a good alternative too if the PSU is shot, but its nce to have it all original. Again, if it has odd voltages then a switcher probably wont do. Try arcadeshop for these, or use their PSU conversion kit:

    http://arcadeshop.com/mcr/mcr.htm

  5. #5
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    I found the Bally Midway MCR II & III System manual.. good information in there.

    I'm not opposed to putting in a switching power supply. Looks like that adapter + a new switching power supply from Arcade Shop would set me back about $70, which is reasonable. But I'll do some more voltage checks on the OEM one first to see what I can find.

    I found a post from someone with pretty much the same problem as me here, but the power brick on the bottom of their case looks quite a bit different than mine (and that's where they found a couple bad diodes).

    And thanks Focusrs, I'll check continuity on the board as well.

  6. #6
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    I finally got around to testing the power board last weekend. There was continuity across most of the traces (a few were too far gone), but with all the board corrosion from the old leaking battery, multiple bad diodes, and several other burned out components, I chose the path of least resistance... Today I ordered Arcade Shop's MCR Switching Power Supply Adapter along with their "black" standard power supply. For $70 plus shipping, seems like a no brainer.

    I'll hold onto the bad power board for 'completeness" sake, since the cab is all original and in otherwise terrific shape.

    I'll update the thread once I get the new power supply installed. Hopefully I'll finally get to see the game working for the first time since I acquired it!
    Last edited by Nurmix; 10-10-12 at 03:59.

  7. #7
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    Good choice, a great kit that one.

    It goes without saying but I will say it anyway... if the game board has a battery on it - REMOVE IT! Unless its been modded of course. I wasnt aware Satans Hollow had one, but remove it anyway. Who cares about high scores! :-) If the battery is one of those PSU mounted ones, well hopefully its outta there already. A guy HERE replaced his with the battery from a cordlesss phone.

  8. #8
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    Default Satan's Hollow Arcade Game - Fixed!

    I received the new switching power supply and adapter board from ArcadeShop last week, and I installed it a couple days ago... I've been enjoying Satan's Hollow ever since!

    I acquired this game in non-working order in August, and after removing the original power board and seeing the damage the old leaking battery did to it, I decided to go the switching power supply route, rather than trying to repair the damage.

    As for the game, I did play it a handful of times back in the day, but not enough to get good at it. It is a really entertaining shooter though, and it's a great addition to my arcade.


  9. #9
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    Awesome! Told you they were good kits!
    Nice one... congrats on the first fix, hopefully more to follow.

  10. #10
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    Quote Originally Posted by retroshaun View Post
    Awesome! Told you they were good kits!
    Nice one... congrats on the first fix, hopefully more to follow.
    Thanks man! I had to meter and adjust the +5v voltage a little after installation (they recommend 5.1v as the max for these MCR boards). To play it safe I set it to 5.08v - but it's rock steady under load with this PSU. Anything even slightly below +5v on MCR boards, I'm told, will result in all sorts of weirdness with the game. Having said that, I didn't bother to try 4v just to see what would happen.


    And technically, this is my 2nd fix of these 6 machines. With World Series The Season (also DOA when I got it), I had to clean up edge connectors, adjust the screen, resolve a sound/volume issue, clean the controller contacts, install new marquee fluorescent ballast and tube, fix the coin door wiring and lights, and put on a new power cord and plug. Just sayin'...


    I'm not sure if the "cosmetic" repairs to Fort Cosmos qualify as a fix, necessarily, but cleaning the rat mess, installing a new fluorescent ballast and tube, and getting rid of the scratched plexiglass was a long project!

    Seriously though, thanks for the advice and help, Shaun. If anyone knows their way around an arcade cab, it's YOU, my friend! The next in line is to repair the monitor chassis of Master Of Weapon. That's my only JAMMA cab, and it's destiny lies with an ArcadeSD board, once I get the monitor back to life!

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