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Thread: My Atari 2800 Mod project "Wireless Woody"

  1. #21
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    This is a fascinating discussion. Keep up with the photo-journal.

  2. #22
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    Here I've pointed out where the Luma, Chroma, and Audio are on my board, technically I should be able to wire up the Luma, Chroma and C-Sync together to make my Composite video out. The only thing that bugs me is the resistance/impedance, why are my resistors different to the ones Ben Heck diagram, is it because of the PAL signal? Should I stick to the resistors on the board? Or should I use something different?
    I have to admit that I assumed NTSC, I can't say I am experienced with the PAL unit but it sounds like you know how to read a schematic and interpret components, I expect you will get this done. As I recall I picked off a composite video signal from a single point where they combined. I need to crack open my unit and see, it has been years.

    In the mean time, there is no harm in picking off a signal and seeing how it looks. If the picture is dark, or off in general, then look at altering the values, mine looked slick off the bat.
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  3. #23
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    Ok, I got myself some crocodile clips and phono sockets from work and built up a rudimentary Composite video set up. With the design before, I got nothing but audio.

    However I did this!



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    I stuck the cables in before the resistors, and I got a wonderful picture. Slight problem though...

    When playing Yars or Demon Attack, I would get a distorted image when a lot of flashing would happen, for example in Demon attack if my ship gets killed, the screen warps for a few milliseconds until the explosion animation finishes. As for Yars, the screen would wig out a little just near the end of the explosion sequence. Any reasons for this?

  4. #24
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    Ok, I found out a few more things. Firstly the resistors have a reason to be there, to cut down on too much Luminescence, but the set of 3.3K ohm resistors is too much resistance for composite output. The Ben Heck diagram makes sense in that you need some resistance, but not 3.3K of resistance. He uses pots to vary the luminescence that get put into the screen and adjust it until it looks right on the TV. So I need to back to this diagram again...



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    One slight problem though, I bought the components from work to together that the pots and resistors went missing, grr... not only that, but when I wanted to just get the vero pins onto the board and get the wires ready; my brand new Soldering iron burst into a puff of smoke, fucking cheap shit! lol gotta go back into work tomorrow to get more pots, resistors and replace my damn iron!

  5. #25
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    Ok, I've been thinking about the design of the Wireless Woody, seeing that now I've looked inside of an Atari 2600, the original design of place the joystick closer to the centre of the console isn't going to work, this is due to the mother board and the Happ/Sanwa joystick will get in way. Thinking back to what Scott suggested, I might just try out having the cart slot in a 90 degree angle, and have the cart hover over the motherboard, and have a front loading cart slot like the Turbo Grafx has...



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    This way, the cartridge is not overly obtrusive and give you hands a bit of free space without worrying about knocking the cartridge.
    Last edited by SepticLemon; 30-07-11 at 11:14.

  6. #26
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    Sounds like you have things well in hand. The pots are key to trimming correctly. However if your total properly adjusted signal is below the level needed then you need to amp the other outputs... One possible solution, for the most part all you have to do is occasionally update the SD card as new games become available if you use the harmony cart. Your harmony cart need not be available other than for rare updates. If I were building this, I would just bury the harmony PCB with a 90 deg adapter. I would extend the SD card slot and USB to some back panel connections. The USB could be done by a simple cable and the SD card slots are widely available, just extend the wiring.
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  7. #27
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    Quote Originally Posted by SubaruBrat View Post
    Sounds like you have things well in hand. The pots are key to trimming correctly. However if your total properly adjusted signal is below the level needed then you need to amp the other outputs... One possible solution, for the most part all you have to do is occasionally update the SD card as new games become available if you use the harmony cart. Your harmony cart need not be available other than for rare updates. If I were building this, I would just bury the harmony PCB with a 90 deg adapter. I would extend the SD card slot and USB to some back panel connections. The USB could be done by a simple cable and the SD card slots are widely available, just extend the wiring.
    Ok, well I'm not going to go straight to the Harmony cart just yet. The design that I have will still allow me to use cartridges, and then in the future use the harmony cartridge. I'm not too fussed about the where I should put the SD card, I want it to still work on cartridges.

  8. #28
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    Quote Originally Posted by SubaruBrat View Post
    I would just bury the harmony PCB with a 90 deg adapter.
    Saying that, where can you get those? The 90 Degree adapter?

  9. #29
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    There area few ways to go about it. Septic, PM me and we can get part numbers and such in line. I must admit that I cant recall those from memory.
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  10. #30
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    Ok, I got a new iron, and new components. I stayed up last night coming up with a circuit board to regulate the luma. Today I built this!



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    I plugged everything up, everything looked fine, turned it on, nothing happened, I realised that I was an idiot not to plug a cartridge into the system, but noticed that smoke was coming out or what looked like a cap near the RF modulator.

    GAH!

    I hate this, lol, I would blow up my first Atari, lol

    Scott have a look at this design I made for the board, it SHOULD work, but it blew something near the switches...



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    Note, each horizontal line has copper cladding.
    Last edited by SepticLemon; 31-07-11 at 08:04.

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